The
Truth About Rates And APR
IN
THIS SECTION:
• Introduction: The Truth About Interest Rates.
• What effects my Final Interest Rate?
• Mortgage Northwest’s Rate Policy.
• APR – What is the Annual Percentage Rate and how
does it help the borrower?
The Truth About Interest Rates
So
what is the real truth about interest rates?
One
of the major problems in the mortgage industry today is that there
are a lot of lenders advertising what many would consider to be
Low Ball interest rates.
These
lenders which market to the consumer through the television, radio
and direct mail, often advertise a rate that seems too good to be
true. It isn’t too good to be true, but it certainly is in
many cases too good to be advertising!
What
these lenders are doing is offering an interest rate that could
only be locked in for 7 days. And as we see by looking at our sample
interest rate chart, a 7-day loan lock, is at the most aggressive
and attractive pricing in the marketplace. There is one big problem
with this tactic however, it’s misleading, for it is impossible
to lock someone in on a refinance for 7 days at the time of application.
With the 3 day right of rescission alone, that loan could not be
closed rapidly enough to meet the lock in commitment. This technique
that is used to get the phone to ring is one that the consumer needs
to watch out for.
These
“Low Ball Lenders” also may not take into account many
other factors that have effect on you interest rates. Things such
as:
1. Type of Loan – it is a Purchase Loan? Construction Loan?
Debt Consolidation Loan? Cash Out Loan? FHA? VA? Conforming? Jumbo?
2. Final appraised value of your home vs. loan size.
3. Income verification - Fully disclosed? Lite – Doc? Stated
Income? No Income Verification?
4. Credit Rating.
5. Are your taxes and insurance going to be included in the payments?
Why do they change every day? How come every lender has different
rates? What do they mean by a rate lock period? What does it mean
when I pay points and when I don’t? How is it that a lender
can do a no points loan and even a no points/no fees loan? The objective
of this section is to answer all of these questions and more. So
when you walk away, you can say you DO know the truth about interest
rates.
In this discussion we are going to refer to the charts that accompany
this text, in the section "How to Read a Rate Sheet."
Please
keep in mind that this "example" rate sheet is intended
for the purposes of educating and is not a true indication of what
the prevailing market interest rate is. The interest rate chart
displays a hypothetical 30-year fixed Conforming and 30-year fixed
Jumbo loan scenario.
A Conforming
Loan is any loan that is at $310,000 or below.
This
limit does change from time to time, typically going up. The benefit
of a Conforming loan is that it is typically purchased "Post-
Closing" by one of two government agencies; Fannie Mae or Freddie
Mac. The subsequent result of Fannie Mae or Freddie Mac being the
purchaser of the loan, is a more attractive rate of interest for
the consumer. All loans at over $300,700 are considered to be Jumbo
loans. These are loans that are not purchased by Fannie Mae or Freddie
Mac and are purchased by another entity. These loans carry a slightly
higher rate of interest. As a consumer you should first know that
when you are borrowing $300,700 or lower, you are going to get a
more attractive interest rate than if borrowing higher and therefore
falling into the Jumbo category.
The
sample rate sheet provided shows both a Conforming and a Jumbo scenario.
When it comes to interest rates there is really only one thing a
consumer needs and wants to know. "What is the best rate I
can get and how much will it cost me?"
This
cost for an interest rate is typically known as points.
One
point is representative of exactly 1% of the loan amount. Therefore,
if you were borrowing $200,000 and paying one point; that one point
would cost you $2,000. If you pay two, it would cost you $4,000
and so on.
The
most important thing to understand is that points are simply up
front money paid to purchase a more attractive rate of interest.
The more points you pay, the lower the interest rate should become
and subsequently so should your monthly payment become lower.
One
of the more important questions that you must ask yourself before
borrowing money is, "How long will I need to borrow the money
for?" The answer to this question will assist you in determining
whether or not you should be paying points or not.
The
following example explains the reason for this fact. On a $100,000
loan at an interest rate of 7.5% at no points, your monthly mortgage
payment would be $698.58. If you decided that you wanted to lower
your mortgage rate and subsequently your monthly payment, you could
pay a point which would cost $1,000 extra dollars. The result of paying
the point is that you will buy your interest rate down to 7.25%, subsequently
lowering your monthly payment to $681.51. The net savings for paying
the $1,000 up front would be $17.06 per month. To determine whether
or not it is worth it to pay $1,000 up front to save $17.06 a month
going forward, we must take the up front cost of $1,000 and divide
it by the savings which is $17.06. This helps us to determine how
long it will take for us to recuperate that $1,000 we paid in points.
In this particular case it will take 58.61 months, almost 5 years.
Therefore, if you are in the loan for at least 5 years, it will have
made sense for you to have paid that 1 point up front, because everything
after that 58th month, you will be out of the red and into the black,
and saving money. If in fact you get out of this loan in less than
58 months, then you have effectively wasted money by paying the points
up front and therefore, in hindsight, should not have paid any to
borrow the money initially. One
last "Point" about points is that on a purchase loan they
are tax deductible in the tax year that you pay them, which needs
to be considered in your evaluation. It would be appropriate to
consult your tax advisor on this matter.
The
other major component that needs to be factored into the equation
when considering interest rates is your interest rate lock period.
An
interest rate lock is a specified period of time that the investor
lending the money will guarantee that interest rate for. When a
borrower chooses to lock in a loan, they are guaranteeing to the
lender that their loan will fund and the transaction will subsequently
close within that given lock period. If the borrower does not fund
their loan prior to the lock expiring, the borrower loses their
interest rate lock and is consequently subjected to the volatility
that the market may bare.
One
big misconception is that if an interest rate expires and the market
has in the interim improved, the borrower will receive the lower
interest rate. When you think of this logically, it wouldn’t
be fair to the investor, for it was no fault of theirs that the
borrower did not take the interest rate and subsequently fund within
the given lock period that they committed to. Therefore, the borrower
can not benefit from a lock expiring. The rule as it relates to
an interest rate lock expiration is as follows: The borrower will
receive the interest rate that they locked in on, or the prevailing
market rate; whichever is "Higher". You can not benefit
as the borrower by not living up to your end of the lock commitment.
This
brings up a major dynamic as it relates to interest rates in today’s
market place. It is "Critical" that you as the consumer
specify how long you need an interest rate to be locked in for before
considering the rate quote from the lender. The longer you lock
in an interest rate, the more expensive the interest rate becomes
as a result of the lengthier commitment that you are asking of the
investor.
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The
Mortgage Northwest Rate Policy
All
Fund Mortgage and its Loan Officers quote their clients on 30-day
pricing.
30-day
pricing is, in our opinion, a reasonable and ethical lock in period
to be quoting. Anything less is undeliverable, unrealistic and misleading.
When
shopping for interest rates, it is very important that you know
all of the facts. The Truth About Interest Rates is simply this:
The interest rate, the points and how long you can lock that rate
in for, are all items that you must know before being able to make
an educated and informed choice as to which lender is offering you
the best deal.
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APR
– What is the Annual Percentage Rate and how does it help
the borrower?
How does Truth in Lending help mortgage borrowers?
Not much. Truth in Lending (TIL) is a great idea gone hopelessly
wrong.The idea is to require lenders to provide one uniform set
of price disclosures that are consistent from loan to loan, and
from lender to lender. Then consumers can compare prices across
loan types and across lenders. Unfortunately, the price information
in the TIL makes little economic sense and is incomprehensible to
most consumers.The APR is a very confusing number! Even mortgage
bankers and brokers admit it is confusing. The APR is designed to
measure the "true cost of a loan." It creates a level
playing field for lenders. It prevents lenders from advertising
a low rate and hiding fees.If life were easy, all you would have
to do is compare APRs from the lenders/brokers you are working with,
then pick the easiest one and you would have the right loan. Right?
Wrong!Unfortunately, different lenders calculate APRs differently!
So a loan with a lower APR is not necessarily a better rate. The
best way to compare loans in the author's opinion is to ask lenders
to provide you with a good-faith estimate of their costs on the
same type of program (e.g. 30-year fixed) at the same interest rate.
Then delete all fees that are independent of the loan such as homeowners
insurance, title fees, escrow fees, attorney fees, etc. Now add
up all the loan fees. The lender that has lower loan fees has a
cheaper loan than the lender with higher loan fees.
When
I comparison shop for a, e.g., $200,000 30-year fixed-rate mortgage,
here is what I want to know:
Interest Rate: 7%
Total up-front credit charges expressed as a percent of loan: 1%,
or $2,000
Total up-front credit charges expressed as dollars: $3550
Interest cost over the expected life of the mortgage (7 years):
7.53%
I want the interest rate because that determines my credit cost
every month I have the loan, and I want the credit charges because
that’s what I must pay out of my pocket now. The breakdown
of credit charges between those expressed as a percent of the loan
and those that are a fixed number of dollars tells me how much more
or less I would pay up-front if I change the loan amount.In addition,
I want a single measure of interest cost that takes account of both
the rate and the up-front credit charges over the period I expect
to have the mortgage. (Since the up-front charges must be spread
over the life of the loan, my interest cost is lower the longer
I expect to have the mortgage). This is the best measure to use
in comparing different types of mortgages or in shopping mortgages
from different sources.If it was an adjustable rate mortgage, I
would need more information, but I’ll leave that for another
day.
Assuming
the same loan, here is approximately what I would find on the TIL:
Total payments: $479,020. This is the monthly payment of
$1330.61 multiplied by the term of 360.
Amount financed: $194,450. This is the loan amount of $200,000
less "prepaid finance charges" of $5550. This assumes
that prepaid finance charges include all up-front credit charges,
which is not in fact the case as explained below.
Finance
charge: $284,570. This is the sum of all interest payments
over 360 months (total payments of $479,020 minus $200,000 of principal
repayments) plus the prepaid finance charges of $5550.
APR: 7.28%. This is interest cost calculated over 30 years
rather than over the 7 years I expect to have my mortgage.The first
3 numbers are totally useless for comparing loans of different type,
or for shopping different loan providers. For example, the "finance
charge" gives the same weight to dollars paid in interest in
the 30th year as dollars paid at closing. TIL doesn’t show
the interest rate, probably because of a presumption that the APR
makes it unnecessary.The APR is supposed to be a shopping tool,
but unfortunately it has serious flaws. While logic dictates that
all up-front charges that a borrower would not have in an all-cash
transaction should be included in the APR, this is not the case.
Most lenders exclude fees covering such items as credit reports,
appraisals, document preparation, and pest inspections, although
not all. I have found numerous inconsistencies between lenders in
what is and what is not included in the APR.
The
second deficiency of the APR is that it is calculated over the life
of the loan, even though over 90% of all borrowers sell their house
or refinance their mortgage before term. This can lead borrowers
with relatively short time horizons astray.
For example, suppose my $200,000 30-year loan at 7% plus $5500 is
also available at 6.5% and $11,500. Which is better? The APRs calculated
over 30 years are 7.08% for the 6.5% versus 7.28% for the 7%, suggesting
that the 6.5% loan is better. But calculated over 7 years, interest
cost is lower on the 7% loan – 7.53% versus 7.61%.
But
the TIL is not totally worthless. It warns you if there is a prepayment
penalty on your loan. It doesn’t tell you what it is, but
it warns you, which is a good thing. If I sound cynical, it’s
because I am.
Conclusion:
Use the APR as a starting point to compare loans. The APR is a result
of a complex calculation and not clearly defined. There is no substitute
to getting a good-faith estimate from each lender to compare costs.
Remember to exclude those costs that are independent of the loan.
If
you are mathematically inclined, you can calculate your own APR
covering all of the costs of the different loans you are considering.
Calculate the monthly payment of your loan amount.
You can get the monthly payment from the lender, by using a business
calculator or by referring to a mortgage rate book that you can
buy at most bookstores. (Real Estate agents and banks also have
such tables at their disposal.) Example: A 30-year $250,000 loan
at 8.25% requires a monthly payment of $1,865.34
Add the points and various fees, and subtract the total from the
original loan amount.
Continuing the example, say the loan carries a two-point origination
fee and various other fees totaling $6,500. Subtract that from $250,000
and you get $243,500.
Using the new loan amount, calculate the interest rate that would
yield the same monthly payment as in Step 1.
It will be somewhat higher. You may have to arrive at this figure
by trial and error, rounding off to one-hundredth of one percent,
but the result will be your APR. In the example, it is 8.54%
Assuming all other factors are equal, a bank that places a $450
application fee on a $50,000 loan amount will post an APR of, say,
8.67%. But the same $450 fee on a $250,000 loan will yield an APR
of 8.54%.
On
adjustable rate mortgages, lenders calculate the APR for only the
initial rate; the low, so-called teaser rate that is usually heralded
in the headline of an advertisement. That's why you an't compare
APRs on a fixed rate with an adjustable rate, or with any of the
hybrid mortgages such as the 7- or 10-year fixed loans that adjust
after an initial period.
What
is an Annual Percentage Rate (APR)?
The annual percentage rate (APR) is an interest rate that is different
from the note rate. It is commonly used to compare loan programs
from different lenders. The Federal Truth in Lending law requires
mortgage companies to disclose the APR when they advertise a rate.
Typically the APR is found next to the rate.
Example: 30-year fixed 8% 1 point 8.107% APR
The
APR does NOT affect your monthly payments. Your monthly payments
are a function of the interest rate and the length of the loan.
The
reason why APRs are confusing is because the rules to compute APR
are not clearly defined.
What
fees are included in the APR?
The
following fees ARE generally included in the APR:
Points
- both discount points and origination points
Pre-paid interest: The interest paid from the date the loan closes
to the end of the month. Most mortgage companies assume 15 days
of interest in their calculations. However, companies may use any
number between 1 and 30! Loan-processing fee
Underwriting fee
Document-preparation fee
Private mortgage-insurance
The following fees are SOMETIMES included in the APR:
Loan-application
fee
Credit life insurance (insurance that pays off the mortgage in the
event of a borrowers death) The following fees are normally NOT
included in the APR:
Title
or abstract fee
Escrow fee
Attorney fee
Notary fee
Document preparation (charged by the closing agent)
Home-inspection fees
Recording fee
Transfer taxes
Credit report
Appraisal fee
An APR does not tell you how long your rate is locked for. A lender
who offers you a 10-day rate lock may have a lower APR than a lender
who offers you a 60-day rate lock!Calculating
APRs on adjustable and balloon loans is even more complex because
future ratesare unknown. The result is even more confusion about
how lenders calculate APRs.
Do
not attempt to compare a 30-year loan with a 15-year loan using
their respective APRs. A 15-year loan may have a lower interest
rate, but could have a higher APR, since the loan fees are amortized
over a shorter period of time.
Finally,
many lenders do not even know what they include in their APR because
they use oftware programs to compute their APRs. It is quite possible
that the same lender with the same fees using two different software
programs may arrive at two different APRs!
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